Week 13: Dec. 26, 2012- Jan. 1, 2013 (Day 85-91)

Week 13:

Wed. Dec. 26, 2012—Day 85:

Destination:  Warderick Wells

Winds:   S 5-10K

Weather:  glorious, warm sunny with scattered clouds, H= 82F, L=70F

Location of Christmas Feast--Warden's House

We rose this morn for some weather report on SSB 4045 at 0630hrs. but Ed was not loud enough to understand; no other reports heard.  There was a large exodus of boats to mostly places close by from here to Staniel Cay.  The enclosure windows were washed from the saltiness from the salt just in the air & wind.  We dinghied to the office to pay Jen for today’s stay.  Also for our internet problems she gave us a new username & password free of charge for “ECLSP”; we sat outside the office & caught up on emails (50+), then we dinghied over to The Rangers Garden, between the headquarters & Narrow Water Cay.  After lunch we dinghied to a sandbar exposed at low tide just slightly west of our mooring location, to the dock by Fuel Cay (apparently some good snorkeling there), then to Emerald Rock, the many sand beaches & trails on Warderick Wells, passed Emerald Rock (South) mooring field & anchorage to Beryl’s Beach.  On our way home later in the afternoon we stopped in at ‘Truansea’ & made tentative plans for departure & our destination including options for the next few days; I guess exploring Hawksbill Cay has to wait again.  We were all aiming to be in Staniel Cay Fri. or Sat. till New Years & the celebrations & because a cold front is approaching Sunday afternoon.  I had internet for good while again this evening.  A most lovely sunset with red rays radiating out like the spokes on a bike.  As the night progressed, a light cloud cover moved in, although the near full moon was still visible.  It remained very warm & muggy; in fact when I stepped out into the cockpit it was like stepping into dense fog, but it was the enclosure windows that were so heavily laden with moisture. 

Thurs. Dec. 27, 2012—Day 86:

Destination:  Warderick Wells  to Cambridge Cay

Departure:  1120 hrs.                              Arrival:   1355 hrs.                      Distance:  13.81 NM (chart)

Winds:  NW to N <5K                                                           Seas:  clam, no chop, flat to ripples

Weather:  not really nice lookingà heavy grey clouds especially to the S & SW, few sprinkles of rain now & then

Sunset at Cambridge Cay

The Gang

There was a light rain shower just enough to have to close the hatches & ports at 0600 hrs.; it was welcomed “to clean the decks”.  And it was time to get up anyways to see if we could hear any weather reports.  SSB was too scratchy; later Christine (‘Turansea’) gave us what she heard.  I still had internet so was able to send an email I forgot to send last night & was able to connect to Wind Alert & get the weather, wind & sea report for the next 7 days; despite the appearance of the sky this am, the wind report was O.K. but a front was expected to approach later Sun. through to Tues.  ‘Truansea’ & ourselves planned to travel together till Staniel Cay.  Our 0800 hrs. departure was postponed till the sporadic rains & threatening clouds passed.  We finally said our goodbyes & thanks at 1120 hrs.; check out time was 1200 hrs.  Quite a number of boats seen out on the horizon moving both north & south; seems a lot of boats heading to Staniel Cay now & over the next 1-2 days.  But it was a motorboat ride with barely a ripple on the water.  Even without sun it was possible to see bottom 20 ft. below.  Our 1^st thought was to go somewhere about Pipe Creek but being ultra conservative cautious because of the questionable approach with very shallow water especially coming into low tide, the decision was to go to Cambridge Cay.   Upon our arrival there were 3 other boats; later a catamaran picked up a mooring ball.  We dropped our dinghies.  ‘Truansea’ snorkeled the Coral Gardens (saw a sea turtle), airplane wreck, & even the caves at Dundas Rock.  We went across Conch Cut, across the west & south shore of Compass Cay trying to make sense of the marked passage to the marina (nicely protected hole), then around to the area accessed best from Joe Cay Cut.  Of course the water was so flat, even the Atlantic by the look of things, all the Exuma Cuts were probably easy passages.  The skies were clearing.  Mark & Christine & the boys invited us for a pizza supper; Christine made the base crust & spread the pizza sauce on each, then we all added our own toppings & then they were baked in the BBQà yum, yum!  We played 3 hands of cards (Go Fish).  A lovely sunset, humid & much condensation on everything.  The water surface was like glass.  A bright moon light the clear night sky; and for that reason the abundance of stars were not as noticeable, but they were certainly there.

Fri. Dec. 28, 2012—Day 87:

Destination:  Cambridge Cay to Staniel Cay, Big Majors Anchorage by Pigs Beach

Departure:  0820 hrs.                    Arrival:  1145 hrs.                                Distance:

Winds:  E 10K+ or - & S 10K at night                           Seas:  nothing to speak of

Weather:  superb, magnificent sun, blue sky, scattering of clouds & aqua water

Ray & Nurse Sharks

A most calm & peaceful night.  No SSB reception this am.  We pulled the dinghy & engine up & departed to the Exuma Banks, while ‘Truansea’ exited Conch Cut into Exuma Sound.  We both sailed close hauled at about 5.4K & arrived at our destination at about the same time.  I didn’t see much of the trip as I was down below charging phones & on the inverter charging my netbook, toothbrush, camera battery & finally I got my Microsoft Word program working so I could write the last 2 days’ events of my journal.  ‘Truansea’ went to Staniel Cay Yacht Club & filled with water & fuel & relayed back to us that there were 4 boats anchored at the Grotto, so Graeme went directly to Big Majors Anchorage off of Pigs Beach & we anchored in 10 ft. of water with 80 ft. of chain; lots of boats in this anchorage as we suspected.  We launched the dinghy & engine; Graeme filled the boat’s front water tank with water from 3 jerry cans & switched to the rear water tank just ‘cause + emptied 1 diesel jerry can in the boat tank, while I lazily laid on the deck reading.  Sometime after 1600 hrs. we dinghied all the way around to SCYC for a drink, watched the nurse sharks & rays feeding on the remains of the cleaning of lobsters & took into watching the golf tournament on the beach (all part of Christmas Week activities), meeting up with some people we met at Warderick Wells.  Just as the sun was about to set we started dinghing back home, stopping to see if we would have a  green flash at sunset, but no.  The sky though harboured a red hue for the longest time.  It was slightly choppy at anchor tonight.  And officially it was full moon tonight.  Despite the number of boats anchored with their anchor lights & Christmas lights, in conjunction with the number of mega yachts, their lights + their underwater lighting, the stars were glistening in a nearly clear sky.

Sat. Dec. 29, 2012—Day 88:  

Destination:  Staniel Cay

Winds:  S 5K

Weather:  very warm, sunny, blue skies & few clouds that at noon increased to thin cover that gave us welcomed shelter from the hot sun while walking in town

Staniel Yacht Club rental Cottages

A goodly breeze came up last evening & stayed with us throughout the night; everything still felt damp but the breeze made it more doable.  No SSB again this am, but Graeme discovered that the fine tuning button was not doing much, so did some problem solving & discovered the SSB button was not on & P9 also was not up on the screen; we will check out the corrections in the am.  The weather we received from June on ‘Blue Yonder’ at Staniel Cay on VHF 16à12 at 0800 hrs. stated that the cold front was still on course for late Sun. & Mon. with improving conditions on Tues. & supposedly not as bad as 1^st predicted; let’s hope!  The Mailboat had arrived this morning (days late apparently) with fresh fruits & vegetables & supplies.  The Blue Wing Grocery store announced on VHF that they would open until 1130 hrs.  Just as we were preparing to go ashore Gail & Eric (‘Viking’s Dream’) kayaked up; we quickly learnt of their travels after separating at Fraser’s Hog Cay.  They recommended West End on New Providence as a good anchorage.  We landed the dinghy on shore behind the man-made rock breakwater.  A number of us walked to Blue Wing (still pricing) & Pink Pearl (coconut bread $6.00, tomato, & green bananas, total= $9.00) Grocery stores.  Bread can be ordered & purchased at the yellow house as you walk to these 2 grocery stores & in front of the police station.  The group walked to Isles General Store (by the airstrip & bridge over a creek) which had more of a selection of fresh fruits & vegetables & an assortment of sliced bread & buns & steak ($4.50 each).  We walked back looking to eat at a local spot but they were closed on weekends, so Staniel Cay Yacht Club it was; food was good but probably more expensive that the other joints.  We ate & talked with Louiselle & Ken who apparently we passed on the Cape Fear River before Southport.  We also met Gail & Eric again & Phyllis & Tom ( Krogan 42-Cocoon ll) who we met 2 years ago from Tofino, B.C.  They said that Sampson Cay Marina may be under different management & in any case the restaurant is closed & no $2.00 Tuesdays last year; a pity.  I did purchase internet for $10.00 for a 24 hr. period but will have to use it on land as I have poor reception in Big Majors anchorage.  ‘Truansea’ dinghied back after their snorkeling excursion with 2 lobster, 1 squirrel fish & 1 good size conch; have a great feast guys!  Clouds accumulated in the west, so the sunset was obscured but the sky afterwards was quite red.  A couple of people in the anchorage blew their conch horns at sunset, a Bahamian custom, of cruisers at least.  The thought was to return to shore for the Pirates Party at 1900 hrs. at SCYC but we didn’t like the thought of dinghing all that distance back home in the dark.  A calm evening & the night sky was filled with a full moon, stars & some cloud.

Sun. Dec. 30, 2012—Day 89:

Destination:  Staniel Cay

Winds:  SWàNWàN & NE suddenly & quickly 17-20K + gusts         Seas:  1 ft. chop

Weather:  cloudy but by mid am blue skies & sun

Bougainvilla

A little rolly before dawn as the wind direction changed to the west.  Suddenly at 0730 hrs. the winds quickly clocked to NW to N & slightly NNE in the afternoon & just as quickly increased in speed; this was a quick moving cold front according to the weather report from ‘Blue Yonder’ but it seemed that it had arrived earlier than predicted.  The northern winds of the cold front kicked up whitecaps on the crests of the chop for the rest of the morning & persisted all afternoon, evening & through the night.  Some boats left & new ones arrived.  The SCYC was holding its auction between 1500-1800 hrs. with free food, as long as it lasted, & free drinks to raise money for the New Years festivities.  We had planned to attend but the long dinghy ride, especially coming back, would have been very wet.  Also in question was the BBQ’ing of our steaks for tonight’s dinner; unfortunately too windy.  So today was a day of reading on board, watching the weather & the movement of boats at anchor.  The setting sun was again blocked by clouds followed by only a slight pink hue to the sky.  Moon, stars, some clouds & howling winds which always seem more eerie at night filled the sky tonight.

Mon. Dec. 31, 2012—Day 90:

Destination:  Staniel Cay

Winds:  E 18-23K, decreased to 12-15K but with gusts of 20-25K

Weather:  mostly sunny, some clouds & fair light cloud cover a good part of the day, low humidity & almost cool

Tida Wave--Bahamian Sloop

New Years Eve!

Despite the howling winds, the clunking & tugging of the anchor & chain & the slapping of water against the hull when the boat at a particular angle to the chop, I slept, whereas Graeme seemed to be up all night sleeping &/or reading.  SSB was better this am but Ed’s voice was still too low & no weather from ‘Blue Yonder’.  For several days now we have been listening to Exuma Park at 0900 hrs. to hear if ‘Moma Cal’ &/or ‘Kathrian’ were in the vicinity.  Mid morning the SCYC held its annual Class ‘A’ Bahamian Sloop Race between Tida Wave & Lady Muriel, where the skipper is local & crew is 8-10 cruisers per boat that signed up.  It was blowing 20-25K & on making it’s 1^st tack Lady Muriel litterly lost it’s crew overboard, the boat heeled over & filled with water & sank.  The crew was rescued but the boat will have to wait some other time.  In the meantime we had headed for shore with foul weather gear on & a good thing; we were doused pretty good on a number of occasions.  I sat backwards but Graeme was forwards as he was driving of course.  I activated my Exuma WiFi that I had purchased; the 1^st username & password did not work but the 2^nd did.  I worked away on emails & found the location of ‘Moma Cal’ & ‘Kathrian’ in Nassau; they were there because of the cold front & also to see the Junkanoo tomorrow, then planned to move to Allans Cay to see the iguanas.  Graeme thought he would watch some of the race when he learnt of the sinking incident, so instead filled 2 empty diesel jerry cans well I worked at emails.  We had a great hamburger (Graeme) & snapper (Laura) meal for lunch at the Taste & Sea Café.  We purchased butter X 2 for Christine & ourselves + 2 of the smallest potatoes at Pink Pearl.  The dinghy ride home was drier.  A New Years Eve Happy Hour was held on ‘Truansea’ + 3 other boats including ourselves till 2000 hrs.  Graeme slept while I stayed awake till 2300 hrs. reading until the eyes started slamming shut.  I laid down & slept till shortly after midnight then woke to see the last of the spectacular fireworks from SCYC.  The night sky was incredible; moon, stars, milky way.

.

Tues. Jan 1, 2013—Day 91:

Destination:  Staniel Cay

Winds:  E 10-17K, some gusts                                     Seas:  negligible

Weather:  partly sunny & cloudy in am but full sun by midday & very comfortable temp

Happy New Year!  And much health, happiness & prosperity to all relatives & friends!

We knew we were not moving today & we didn’t think Chris would be broadcasting, so we slept in.  We listened to ‘Blue Yonder’ & her weather report, we watched a few boats leave & listened to conversations on the VHF between some boats we knew who left; much more wind than in the anchorage.  We dinghied to shore (not so wet today) to do internet with the remaining 38 mins.; I worked on a few emails & posted a few weeks of my blog, minus photos unfortunately.  Then we walked to the interior of the island on some remote roads.  Meanwhile SCYC the Cruising Regatta Race was soon to be under way; on Bahamian time—late.  While having a beer after our walk & before heading back home, Phyllis & Tom arrived with their friends, Evey & Jack.  It was on our dinghy ride home that we learnt of the collision in the race between ‘Glory Days’, a Canadian 50 ft. catamaran from Ottawa & Tida Wave, an ‘A’ Class Bahamian sloop; the cat was t-boned & had a huge hole in the port pontoon.  Not exactly a great record the last 2 days for racing.  Somehow the cat was brought to Pig Beach & a rescue team, ‘Amazing Grace’ worked to pump out water in the boat with divers or snorkelers & applied a plywood patch to the hole.  The boat was floated & rafted to the rescue boat that anchored not far behind us for the night.  We dinghied to Pig Beach to take pics of the pigs & like so many other dinghies observed the rescue operation on ‘Glory Days’.  You had to feel for the owners & people aboard with so many onlookers.  No one was hurt & we learnt the next day the outpouring of generousity of other cruisers.; heart wrenching.  We said our welcomed Dave & Mary (‘Morning Star’, a C&C 48) who were dock mates at the marina in Nassau & happened to anchor beside us.  We expressed our Happy New Year’s wishes to ‘Viking’s Dream’ as we dinghied to the Happy Hour invite on Cocoon II & their guests.  From the stern deck we all watched a near perfect sunset, but no green flash & enjoyed an evening of comraderie; a good time had by all.  A very good way to welcome the New Year.  It was another incredible night sky with moon, stars+++ & milky way.          

Week 12: Dec. 19-25, 2012 (Day 78-84)

Week 12:

Wed. Dec. 19, 2012—Day 78:

Destination:  Nassau

Winds:  W & light in am, NE 12K by evening

Weather:  sunny, hot & blue skies

Bridge to Atlantis

The visit to Dr. Annette Warren & office was the right decision.  I arrived & was taken before my appointed time.  Nothing horrific found after the examination & xrays, but porcelain chips off 1^st & 3rd teeth of my lower left bridge, secondary most likely to my hard bite; no abscess, no infection just inflammation, therefore some grinding & polishing & 3 prescriptions ($250.00).  The dentist & staff were very pleasant, efficient & professional with the latest of equipment.  Prescriptions filled & home by 1000 hrs.  Other activities of the day: filling the fuel & water tanks, cleaning the deck, cockpit & transom, washing the enclosure windows, long walk along East Bay Rd. to downtown for banking, a horrible haircut for me, a beer at Hammerhead Bar (local), a walk up one side of Potters Cay & down the other & purchasing a few articles at Solomon’s Super Market ie milk.  Happy Hour was enjoyed on ‘Ambition’ over the supper hour.  We tried for free internet at Solomon’s with a connection but no internet, so down to Starbuck’s before they closed at 2100 hrs.  Graeme examined Wind Alert for the Exumas for the next 7 days on my laptop, while I glanced at my netbook for emails, only answering a few that time allowed.  We have been impressed with Wind Alert website; easy to comprehend by 2 neophytes but just need internet access.  A warm night yet a coolish NE wind kicked up.  A nearing ½ moon was seen earlier, clear skies & stars with a few clouds.

Thurs. Dec. 20, 2012—Day 79:

Destination:  Nassau, New Providence to Highborne Cay

Departure:  0710 hrs.            Arrival:  1640 hrs.            Distance:  34.6 NM (charts) 55.2 NM (boat)

Winds:  ESE to SE 13-18K, decreased to 10-13K                             Seas:  2-4 ft.

Weather:  sunny with only a few clouds, pleasantly warm temps

I experienced anxiety & butterflies once again before we departed mainly because of a very strong cold front predicted for Fri. evening through Sat. & the fact that we were off alone again.

Lots of hands were on the dock to let us off our slip; well done.  Out of harbour via the east end with Nassau Harbour Control’s permission.  We headed to Porgee Rocks (about 5 NM), then the VPR route over the lower section of Middle Ground & the northern part of the Yellow Banks (numerous scattered coral heads).  We motorsailed in a SSE direction, on a beat with the jenny, carrying a speed of 6.0- 6.4K, gliding nicely through the 2 ft. rollers & crashing down in the troughs of the 4 footers.  Because we were sailing into the sun & the chopped state of the sea with rollers, Graeme wisely chose to take a more southerly route to avoid the more numerous number of coral heads slightly to the north, but then we had to tack X 2 to our destination to the NE.  I doned my foul weather jacket to be protected from the salt water & spray, standing & bracing 1 foot on the starboard rail & 2 hands tightly squeezing the starboard handle of the dodger when we were in the coral head area.  At times Graeme sat crossways on the ICW seat bracing his feet on the starboard lazarette or simply standing behind the wheel with feet in a wide stance; auto was great at steering & keeping us on course.  The SE winds decreased coincidentally once we tacked to avoid a charted rock & then tacked back to corrected our direction to Allans Cay.  We were now cruising the Exuma Cays!

 

The Exuma Cays, Great Exuma Island & Abacos are the 2 most popular cruising destinations in the Bahamas.  They are 95 NM long with exquisite water, an endless succession of cays (islands) & places with fuel, food & fellow cruisers.  They run NW to SE from 25oN to 23oN, are 35 NM SE from Nassau & New Providence to the remote southern Out Islands.  The east side (deeper water) is called Exuma Sound with higher seas & the west (shallower & protected from the prevailing SE winds) is called Exuma Bank with less winds, gentler seas & better conditions.               

We entered Allans Cay, a group of 3 islands, Allans, Southwest Allans & Leaf Cay, into the sheltered waters between these cays.  Already there were 9 sailboats in the north anchorage & 1 in the south.  We anchored X 3 but unhappy with the locations, protection & holding in the 3^rd spot.  Allans Cay is the home to iguanas, remaining prehistoric looking lizards found here & only the Out Islands.  We decided to move a short distance (1/2 hour) further south to Highborne Cay, a private island with limited privileges to cruisers, anchoring along the western coast, off the beach in 12 ft. & ?80-100 ft. chain (I lost track); 8 boats in total.  We had our 1^st Bahamian sunset!  Scattered clouds crossed passed part of the sun; ? green flash followed by a red sky.  The wind generator was switched on & whirling.  A half moon was present this evening, clear skies with some clouds & stars.

No Green Flash, but hopefully many more of these!

Fri. Dec. 21, 2012—Day 80:  

Destination:  Highborne Cay to Cambridge Cay, Exuma Land & Sea Park

Departure:  0705 hrs.         Arrival:  1335 hrs.              Distance:  37.4 NM (chart)      NM (boat)

Winds:  AM: SSW 10K to SW 11-13K  PM: SW toW to N 20-25K + gusts            Seas:  1-2 ft.

Weather:  warm, mainly sunny with clouds filling in the afternoon; angry clouds from the west through the north + rain squall

As the wind clocked ESE & SE to the south during the night, it became a little rolly polly.  C.P.’s reception was a bit better this am; we caught just the 1^st ½ hr., then we up anchored, hoping for a place to hide from another but very strong cold front to hit late pm.  Unfortunately instead of  heading west, we took a more southerly exit which put us in the shallows & in making a 360 to turn back, the keel hit ?coral (hard).  Also unfortunate was the fact that we were passing all these wonderful & numerous cays we or at least I hoped to explore ie Normans, Shroud, Hawksbill Cays.  We motorsailed on the jenny at a speed of 6-6.4K.  We thought we had missed Highborne Cay Net (VHF 16 to 09) at 0730 hrs. & Warderick Wells (VHF 16 to 09) at 0800 hrs., but at 0815 hrs. the weather forecast from Highborne broke in.  At 0900 hrs. Exuma Park broadcasted mooring ball assignments & asked if anyone was leaving & if there was anyone who wanted a ball. 

A boat wanting a mooring ball can make a request one day in advance.  If lucky a boat may get an assignment that day if so desired.  If there are no mooring balls available a boat is put on a waiting list for the following day & must listen to the next day’s 0900 hrs. announcements.

As we cruised along admiring the water colour we kept Normans Stake & Elbow Cay well off to port, as well as Cistern Bore, Lightning Bore, Long Rock Bore, Bell Island Bore & Rocky Dundas Bore.  Keeping Fowl Cay to starboard we followed the Conch Channel towards Conch Cut (to Exuma Sound) making a 90o turn at Cambridge Cay/Little Bell Cay past shallow coral heads, rocky bars, sandbars to the mooring field maintained by Exuma Park.  We had the choice of mooring ball; no one was here; we were all alone again, now waiting for the pending storm.  And right on schedule it showed it’s ugly head, first with dark, swift moving clouds in the north, NW & west.  By 1600 hrs. SW winds increased & shifted rapidly to the north, whitecaps had formed, < 1 ft. chop because of the protection of surrounding land & little fetch.  This location was a good decision on Graeme’s part.  Suddenly there was no visibility of land & a wall of rain (squall) came from the NNW & N + steady 25K winds.  The exterior of the boat was getting a good wash from the sea salt encrusted almost everywhere.  Once the rains ceased after about overnight & all of tomorrow.  By bedtime the howling continued but the clouds had thinned & a ½ moon peeked through, then nothing but clear skies & glorious bright stars.

Sat. Dec. 22, 2012—Day 81:

Destination:  Cambridge Cay, Exuma Park

Winds:  N 20-25K settling to 15-20K for most of day, then 10-15K at sunset   Seas:  1 ft.

Weather:  mostly sunny with some clouds but cool north breeze

After the cold front went through late yesterday afternoon the north winds blew & howled all night 20-25K with frequent gusts of 30+K.  I slept just the same while Graeme slept the evening away so was on & off sleep through the night.  We listened to weather from Chris at 0630 hrs. & Highborne Cay VHF 16 to 12 at 0800 hrs. & the boatlist from Exuma Park at 0900 hrs.; winds were predicted to continue to blow at 20+K all day with some relief tomorrow & more so Mon., Christmas Eve.  We will call in the am (1 day ahead) to be put on the waitlist for a mooring ball in the north field for Mon. 

The Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park extends over 22 mi. from Wax Cay in the north to Compass Cay in the south, covering 176 sq. mi.of cays, rocks, coral reefs, fish breeding grounds & subtropical waters.

A bit of housekeeping & locating Christmas decorations, listening to occasional chatter on the VHF, no internet, nor phone signal to even call Lynn & Larry to see how they are doing.  I guess by now people know that they did not & will not be crossing as Lynn was hospitalized for another bout of pneumonia.  We miss them dearly!  Here we sit alone with gorgeous shades of aqua water with white crests, 1 ft. chop max., beaches & shoreline to walk, rocky trails to climb & explore, several wonderful snorkeling spots & dinghy exploring amongst Rocky Dundas (caves), Cambridge Cay, Bell Island, O’Briens Cay (Sea Aquarium & Coral Gardens to snorkel), Soldier Cay, Little Halls Pond Cay & Halls Pond Cay, but today was much too windy & too cold.  We have been lucky to have done many of these in the past.  A 2/3 moon in the afternoon sky, an orange sky at sunset & the first day of the days getting longer. 

Not just today but on several occasions I’ve thought that I don’t have the right frame of mind from the beginning of this trip.  Too much weather has held us up & caused us to use marinas & mooring balls than anchoring preferably.  Too much salt air, salt spray, salt water, dampness of the sheets climbing into bed most nights, inactivity, non productivity, confinement were sometimes bothersome.  And a great desire for other new adventures.  I often spend my free time like this aft sitting outdoors in the protection of the enclosure reading, suduko, & pondering my life; how much I like being outside/outdoors which might be part of my love gardening & of playing sports most of my life rather than spending hours indoors reading (although I enjoy a good book, time permitting) or becoming more adept & skilled in culinary ways.  Although for the most part I enjoyed my career, I often thought how I wished I had followed & worked with my dad in carpentry & construction, such practical & useful knowledge.  On several occasions whether it be drifting along in the Chesapeake, or calmly & gently cruising the ICW or the Bahamas, or simply at a calm anchorage, I found myself just looking & not thinking, of inner peace, happiness & tranquility & other times of inner turmoil & sadness with tears flowing.  I believe I have learnt more about myself because of the availability of time until I’m back in the rat race of city life.  I wish to share a few quotes from a wonderful & delightful book I just finished: “When it comes to kindness, there are some people you can’t catch up with & just knowing them, having their respect, being friends with them, gives a man a good feeling.”  “And it  occurred to me it was a cry-baby & cowardly thing to wail, as do so many of our frustrated city dwellers, that life has no deep meaning or reasoned plan that the individual can fathom.  For even if this be true, & no matter what life signifies, including nothing, it can still be a rather wonderful adventure, if you allow yourself to adventure in it.”

Sun. Dec. 23, 2012—Day 82:

Destination:  Cambridge Cay

Winds:  E 13-15K

Weather:  partly sunny with fair weather clouds, coolish breeze, dry; mid afternoon some grey clouds as well as at sunset, L 63F

This is the view from our front window!

I woke briefly during the night to what sounded like the mooring ball tapping against the hull, especially when there was a lull in the wind, something different than the last 2 nights.  Looking up through the hatch I could see an enormous number of stars.  After rising the boat was now facing east; a change in wind direction as well as strength & now I wondered if tidal currents were having an effect which was the possible explanation for the mooring ball tapping on the hull, but I had not taken note of the early hour.  At 0830 hrs. ‘Blue Yonder’ had no weather or tides but a schedule of events for Christmas Week at Staniel Cay.  And at 0900 hrs. Exuma Park gave us a terrific mooring ball assignment (#14) for today, but later we called back as promised & declined the assignment for today but would go on the waitlist for tomorrow.  We were on a falling tide till 1100’ish (visual observation only), although despite our efforts no one was able to confirm any info re tides & tomorrow was a better situation by leaving early + winds were to be more settled.  Sitting in the cockpit we could see out west the occasional sail or powerboat, but here were still sat all alone.  Graeme launched the dinghy as the water & wind were more gentle.  We saw a double masted sailboat coming towards Cambridge Cay from the SW, downed their sails & anchored off the more southern beach on Cambridge Cay.  Just as we got under way in the dinghy for some exploring, a sailboat sporting a Canadian flag was coming in & picked up a mooring ball beside us.  Later we discovered the boat was ‘Audacious’ (Catalina 42); we had met Jackie & Roger & their daughter 2 yrs. ago, friends of Judy & Mike (‘Sea Sharp’).  We dinghied north across the cut passed Bell Island (new construction), O’Briens Cay & Soldier Cay & their snorkeling sites, then back to Mailbox Cay & southern Cambridge Cay well above Conch Cut.  At sunset cloud cover from the N & E obscured the lowering sun, but an orangey sky did develop above the clouds after the setted sun.  I can’t adequately describe the billions of brilliant, magical constellations & stars tonight.

Mon. Dec. 24, 2012—Day 83: 

Destination:  Cambridge Cay to Warderick Wells, Exuma Park

Departure:  0720 hrs.                           Arrival:  1020 hrs.                                      Distance:  13.81 NM

Winds:  SE to E 8-13K                                                             Seas:  1 ft.

Warderick Wells

Weather:  warm, magnificent sun once the 
normal am cloud passed

First Bahamian Happy Hour!

Christmas Eve!!!  It just doesn’t feel like it.  We received the SSB 0630 hrs. transmission by C.P.’s replacement for today & tomorrow but like one subscriber said he was not clearly heard because he did not speak loud enough or was too far from his mike & sounded like he was in a tin can.  Instead we finished breakfast & on the move from our isolated, protected, solitude environment X 3 days.  Once we motored past

 the caution shoal & reef area & were west enough to avoid Bell Island Bore, we turned NW, rolled out the jenny & my Christmas gift arrived early—a school of 6-8 dolphins or porpoises played in our bow wake for the longest time, then 3 lingered for a while longer; I got several movies.  At 0900 hrs. Exuma Park gave us our mooring assignment #4, not as good or close to the office as yesterday #14 but we were protected from waves from all directions & the view was spectacular.  The Christmas tree was set up, bow & snowflakes were hung & battery operated Christmas lights were strung in the cockpit.  With the dinghy lowered we headed to the office to pay our fees; bought a $50.00 membership which gave us 2 free nights (used for Cambridge Cay stay) + 2 X $15.00 for Warderick Wells + $15.00 for new & improved Wifi X 24 hrs. or 100 MB.  Then the crusher—absolutely no cell phone service!  We signed up for the Christmas Dinner at 1300 hrs. tomorrow & I purchased a couple of Christmas gifts for Graeme.  Back at the boat I baked a pan of brownies as our contribution for the Christmas meal.  Then it was Happy Hour at the beach.  We met up with ‘Truansea’ & many more new cruisers whose boat names we heard frequently on the VHF.  This helped for the time being with my feelings of homesickness for my family & our traditional Christmas events.  The mosquitoes shooed us home after sunset.  Graeme played my Il Divo Christmas tape twice through during & after dinner.  Both of sat listening with tears streaming down my face & tears even welled up in Graeme’s eyes, especially when he said “at least you have family left”.  No phone connection to call Ottawa or the Morrows.  The pits!  Yet an amazing night in Warderick Wells with so many boats light up with Christmas lights, bright ¾ moon in the sky, the Bahamian breeze blowing & unique water slapping against the hull.  Merry Christmas & Peace on Earth!!!

Tues. Dec. 25, 2012—Day 84:  

Destination:  Warderick Wells

Winds:  ESE to SE 8-12K

Weather:  mostly sunny with a few clouds, warm (near 80F)

Merry Christmas!!!

Santa does come to the Exumas too!

Think snow!

We slept in till 0700-0730 hrs. as no one was transmitting weather today & we were staying put.  A little special menu for breakfast this morning-- fruit cocktail followed by banana pancakes & coffee; sorry, no champagne & orange juice.  We exchanged a few small Christmas gifts between the two of us.  I cooked a supper meal, if not for tonight, for Boxing Day + another evening meal.  Mid morning we went to shore, landing the dinghy on Powerful Beach & walked the Boo Boo Hill Trail, that took us to the highest elevation overlooking both Exuma Sound (Atlantic) & Exuma Banks.  The Atlantic was too calm today so the blow holes were not spraying sea.  It was on to Boo Boo Hill where we met a company of 6 off of ‘Audacious’; one in the group was successfully calling home to wish her mother Merry Christmas & Happy Birthday.  We returned to our boat, quickly showered & dressed for the Exuma Park Christmas Dinner at 1300 hrs.; Warden Henry & wife Teesha cooked the turkey & ham & us cruisers (50+) provided a great variety of scrumptious complimentary dishes.  Just before attending the dinner I ran back up Boo Boo Hill & called Mom then Larry.  My heavy heart was relieved; my Christmas was more complete.  I felt so much better now having talked to both of them & was able to enjoy the Christmas gathering so much more.  Once the crowd had thinned about 1600 hrs. I stood near the warden’s antenna & successfully called & talked to all my family in Ottawa gathered at my sister’s house.  Not feeling hungry I activated the internet I had purchased on my netbook (longer battery life).  Within one hour I apparently had used up my 100 MB or 24 hrs. at a price of $15.00; I had only opened approximately 6 emails & responded to a few.  I will check this out in the morning as I was assured that people run out of time before the MB.  The Christmas lights were on in the cockpit & the CD’s were playing in the cabin tonight.  After sunset the SE winds had increased & continued through the warm night.  A near full moon shone brightly in the partly clear & partly cloudy star filled night sky. 

Week 11: Dec. 12-18, 2012 (Day 71-77)

Week 11:

Wed. Dec. 12, 2012—Day 71:

Destination:  Alice Town, North Bimini

Winds:  SE 12-15K in am, diminishing to about 10K in pm

Weather:  mostly cloudy in am, sunny & warm & most pleasant comfortable temps (breeze)            

  

We didn’t get Chris’ SSB broadcast at 0600 hrs. but his 0630 hrs.; our weather window has closed & a northern blow was to arrive near midnight Thurs. through Fri. & weakening Sat.  With the delay of our crossing from Florida we now do not have time to move from Bimini to an anchorage with enough northern protection.  We compared notes with our dock neighbours this am, Gail & Eric Grehan ‘Viking’s Dream’ (52 ft. Jefferson trawler) from Winnipeg, Man.  There is a possibility of gale force winds from the SW on Tues. Dec. 18.  We thought of leaving Bimini Sun., cross from North Rocks north of Bimini to the Great Bahamas Banks toward Great Bullock Harbour the 1^st night, for an apparent calm night on the Banks, then hunker down Mon. night on the NE side of Great Harbour Cay for Tues. blow.  So I guess we have no choice but to stay here, therefore Graeme hooked up to electricity ($10.00/ day); good time to charge everything.  We will monitor Chris Parker, NOAA & if possible Weather Passage & Wind Alert.  Housekeeping duties filled the rest of the morning, then some internet soon after lunch as I was able to hook to the unsecured line from Sea Crest Hotel &/or WiFi in adjacent marina.  We walked to the south end of North Bimini.  It was low tide & some sea glass & old shells of different sizes washed up in the sand.  We walked along the upper/beach road along the west side of the island (Radio Beach) overlooking the Straits of Florida that we had just crossed yesterday towards the north to Bailey Town, then back the lower road on the east side.  That evening we watched fishermen from Sea Crest next door cutting, skinning, filleting & packaging their catches of the day, ie mahi mahi, wahoo, tuna.  The sky was a lovely colour at sunset.  We chatted to Gail & Eric till dark, learning about their background & family.  A well received shower after a late supper.  Internet connection was O.K. so I continued working till late.  The SE winds about 10K continued & the sky was clear with a considerable number of stars.  Christmas lights decorated some of the buildings.

Thurs. Dec. 13, 2012—Day 72:   

Destination:  Alice Town, Bimini

Winds:  S 5K in am, suddenly N mid afternoon gusting to 15-20K

Weather:  brilliant sun, blue skies & few fair weather white clouds & very warm; suddenly mid afternoon dark clouds from SW that seemed they would miss us, but also with a sudden change in wind direction & strength from the north, the clouds passed over the island & brought some rain

We were unable to get Chris at 0600 hrs. but a fair reception at 0630 hrs. & poor reception for the NOAA report.  After breakfast the canvass windows & the stainless got a soap & water bath.  ‘Viking’s Dream’ had to be moved into a slip across the dock from us; JR, a very knowledgeable skillful dock hand, directed the operation.  Shortly thereafter a 100 ft. fuel boat arrived taking up the full length of the fuel dock; the fueling went on for hours & the boat stayed dockside overnight.  Some internet till early pm then a walk to the hardware store for 2 small hose clamps, then to the beach for laying on the beach reading in the sun (low tide).  Suddenly at 1500 hrs. the wall of ominous black clouds descended quickly upon us with a equally sudden change in wind direction from SSW to W to N & strength as well (10-15-20K).  We briefly looked at Passage Weather & Wind Alert on the internet.  Spurts of fine misty rain then finally a good rain to wash some of the salt off the decks, but still warm as we sat in the cockpit watching the weather change, reading & even having supper for a change in the cockpit.  We both worked away at the internet as each took their turn taking a shower.  Cloudy at sundown & during the night with north winds blowing +/- 15K. 

Fri. Dec. 14, 2012—Day 73:

Destination:  Alice Town, Bimini

Winds:  N to NNE to NE 12-20K

Weather:  mostly sunny with a few clouds, much less humid 

Candy Cane Parade

The alarm rang for us to get up to listen to 0630 hrs. SSB weather, but Chris came in rather poorly today; don’t know if it was from interference because the fuel boat was still beside us.  It appeared that we are here till Sunday & also a change of plans necessary as per location for the next blow Tues. through Thurs.  A refreshing breeze today as I had a long powerwalk (nearly 1-1/2 hrs.) as far north of North Bimini as possible, through Bailey Town, Porgy Bay & Bimini Bay along the east shore road.  Here a new, high end, exclusive Bimini Bay Resort & Marina resides; it is still under construction with only a couple of small powerboats in the 300 slips.  My return route was via the upper west beach road.  High tide was till 1040 hrs. & it was rough out on the Straits of Florida with waves breaking & crashing on shore.  Some blog writing in order this morning.  After lunch just as we were about to start our walk, the Christian Academy's Candy Cane Parade passed; school children handed out candy cane to those of us bystanders.  We then walked to the close RBC Bank using the ATM, then to the beach for some reading on the sand, in the sun, watching & listening to the crashing waves; now low tide.  Happy Hour was on ‘Viking’s Dream’ (1999) starting with a tour of course; we firmed up plans on departure if weather conditions remain status quo. The hours zoomed by.  There was a brief rain shower while preparing supper.  Supper, shower & internet with Bahamian music in the background; after all it was a Friday night.  A dark night, clear skies with stars.

Sat. Dec. 15, 2012—Day 74:  

Destination:  Alice Town, N. Bimini

Winds:  ENE to E 10-15K

Weather:  mostly cloudy with short sunny periods, frequent rain showers in am; partly cloudy & sunny in pm

A fairly decent reception of Chris’ 0630 hrs. SSB broadcast; no great weather or chance for those waiting in Florida to cross to the Bahamas until later Sun. & Mon. eg ‘Moma Cal’ & ‘Kathrian’.  And for us, tomorrow looked O.K. to leave Bimini, but winds predicted to be east, right on the nose.  But we have to move as another system is coming Tues. pm., worse on Wed. with a possible move on Thurs.  The frequent morning rain showers helped clean more of the salt from the decks & window enclosure.  I shook the rug & mats & washed the floor, changed the bed linen (but who knows when I will have reasonable costing laundry facilities) & washed the walls etc. of the V-berth.  I worked away at some emails & composed our Christmas Letter to family & friends & sent it off, then studied Passage Weather & Wind Alert.  We found some discrepancy in the forecast for Tues. through Thurs.; according to the 2 mentioned sites all O.K. for those days, but 30K predicted starting noon Fri. Dec. 21.  We will need to reassess.  We ordered some cinnamon swirl bread with raisins from Nate of Charlie’s Bread & Bakery (Bailey Town just below the R.C. Church-$6.00) from the marina office & it was delivered while we walked to the liquor store & RBC ATM.  The marina was having problems with their generator that makes R/O water (reverse osmosis).  We walked for about 2 hours all the way to Bimini Bay Resort & Marina, passing a quartered off area before & after the police & admin. offices for the Children’s Christmas Party.  We walked all about checking out the facilities, bumping into Gail & Eric & stopping for a drink at the bar; expensive & still the place was empty despite being a weekend.  By the time we returned the marina had made about 10 gal. of R/O water for us, the amount Graeme thought would fill the tank; we squeezed 12 gal. out of the system ($7.20).  We were not sure what the next few days will bring.  Soup only for supper, checked Passage Weather & Wind Alert sites again, then showered.  A clear starry night sky. 

Sun. Dec. 16, 2012—Day 75:

Destination:  N. Bimini to Great Bahama Bank (25o29.079N/ 078o32.940W)

Departure:  0735 hrs.                           Arrival:  1615 hrs.                                 Distance:  56.74 NM

Winds:  S 10K --> ESE to E 8-18K-->E to SE 12-15K                               Seas:  1-2 ft. to 4 ft.

Weather:  clouds to the north, blue sky to the E; early pm clouds arrived from SE

N. Bimini Beach--Hoping to see more of this!

East winds picked up at bedtime last night, creating a choppy, rolling action of the boat as it was tied up at a north-south facing slip, which did settle down.  Near 0400 hrs. I woke to near calmness, then a sudden east gust & brief rain shower (small squall).  Breakfast was followed by a quick shower.  All things below were stashed away, we unplugged from shorepower & untied from the dock with Eric’s assistance.  We motored up the near unmarked channel we arrived by 6 days ago, against current (high tide = 1104 hrs.).  The knotmeter was not working, an indication we were in one place for too long; it was cleaned & functioning again.  We headed south past Turtle Rocks via the Straits of Florida (50 ft. depths) towards Triangle Rocks, then turned SSE onto the Great Bahama Bank (8-13 ft. depths)& it’s brilliant aqua coloured water.  The jenny was set but at times it was difficult keeping it working; we even moved the jenny lines inside the 2 port stays for a period of time.  Early afternoon the clouds increased from the SE & winds increased.  In the distance we could see ‘Viking’s Dream” behind us but gaining ground.  She was equipped with radar & all the bells & whistles, so was able to hail us & warn us of some rainstorm cells in the NE that passed us by.  There were some very interesting cloud formations today & I don’t know that we were going to be that lucky all night.  We anchored in the middle of nowhere it seemed in 15 ft. & 130 ft. chain; no land within sight, about 5 mi. west of Russell Light.  We had hoped to reach Russell Light & better yet the shoal just north of NW Shoal.  It was a lumpy night to say the least; the seas did not lay down but instead increased.  Grey clouds were all around except to the west; there was a clear band of sky just above the horizon & a beautiful sunset with red skies that illuminated the clouds above.  For a couple of days now I had been experiencing a non normal/ tenderness around my chipped tooth area --> ? inflammation; I took Ibuprofen + Gravol 50 mg. more so for sleep with these choppy seas & did sleep well.  The wind generator was turned on after the engine was switched off & it worked all night long.  The seas did calm down at some point.

Mon.  Dec. 17, 2012—Day 76:

Destination:  Great Bahama Bank to Frazer’s Hog Cay, Berry Islands (25o25.337N/ 77o50.134W)

Departure:  0730 hrs.                       Arrival:  1425 hrs.                                   Distance:  about 42 NM

Winds:  SSE 10Kà SE 5-12K                 Seas:  0-1ft.à 2ft. some 3 ft.

Weather:  partly sunny & cloudy am; brilliant sunshine in pm

At some point during the night the seas calmed.  We caught C.P. at 0630 hrs. during breakfast.  My tooth was about the same, but took Ibuprofen X2 + applied Sensodyne Toothpaste around the tooth; for this reason we have planned one night in Frazer’s Hog Cay, then to Nassau where it there would be more possibility for treatment.  We motorsailed with the jenny maintaining 5.7 – 6.0K on a close reach to beam reach.  No light, beacon or stick indicating Russell Light or NW Shoal.  We entered the NW Providence Channel by 1100 hrs.; such a different & calm, comfortable, pleasant experience than 2 yrs. ago.  We went from aqua coloured water to cobalt/ indigo blue.  The winds shifted a few degrees so we were able to sail more off the wind & with a bit more strength, although the seas increased a wee bit; a few slammers every once in a while.  Past Chubb Cay we entered the unmarked channel into Frazer’s Hog Cay against current but with good 9 ft.+ depths & picked up a mooring ball of the now bankrupt/out-of-business Berry Island Marina.  We checked the ball, all the lines & linkages & all seemed in good shape.  There was one other sailboat & ‘Viking’s Dream’ on mooring balls + 2 sailboats in slips of the marina.  I called & made reservations at Nassau Harbour Club Hotel & Marina  for tomorrow & asked for a recommendation for a dentist (Dr. Marlene Sawyer (242) 328-1726).  A nice sunset squeaked in & dropped behind Chubb Cay in a band of clear red sky just above the horizon to a line of overhead clouds that litterly gave us drops of rain.  Graeme & I both got an abundance of sun the last 2 days & needed a shower in the worst way.  A splendid night, dark, clear skies filled with stars+++ & a bowl shaped moon.   

Chubb & Frazer’s Hog Cays are part of the chain of 30 large islands = numerous small cays that make up the Berry Islands.  These islands lie on the NE edge of the Great Bahama Bank  & stretch about 30 mi. from Great Stirrup Cay to the north & Chubb Cay to the south.  They are bounded NE by the NW Providence Channel & south by the Tongue of the Ocean.  The west is shoal.  The Berry’s are known for their beautiful anchorages & excellent fishing.  The population is <1000, Great Harbour Cay is the largest island & most populated.

  

Tues. Dec. 18, 2012—Day 77:

Destination:  Frazer’s Hog Cay to Nassau, New Providence

Departure:  0715 hrs.                          Arrival:  1315 hrs.                                 Distance:  34 NM

Winds:  SW 10-14K

Weather:  mostly sunny, few cloudy periods & quite warm

Welcome to Nassau with Atlantis in background!

A calm, restful night & good reception for CP in the morning.  We said our goodbyes & thanks to Gail & Eric on our departure, as they were off to West Bay, then Highbourne Cay & Staniel Cay X 1 mon. (mostly Feb.) before heading to Georgetown for March.  We headed to Nassau hoping to see a dentist; also a good opportunity to do laundry & maybe purchase some fresh fruit & vegetables.  It was a beam reach; can’t ask for anything better than that!  We motorcruised along at 6.4- 6.9K under jenny alone.  As we were getting closer to Nassau we heard lots of transmissions of boats asking Nassau Harbour Control for permission to enter harbour.  Six miles out we asked & received our permission but slowed down to allow a large cruise ship entrance & ability to turn stern in.  I phoned the recommended dentist by the marina yesterday but not available (? accident) & was given the Dental Clinic  (Dr. Jill Sawyer) & number; the dentist was not in today & open tomorrow & all appointments full but could come in as a walk-in at 1000 hrs. & wait.  We were hailed by Merrill Mant (Ambition) from Montreal, whom we met on our first trip to the Bahamas in 2008-09.  He was moving from Rose Island to Nassau Harbour Club Marina, the same marina we have reservations.  Three Canadian boats arrived at the same time but the staff were quick & efficient in handling our arrivals.  A quick hello with Merrill & his new girlfriend Maryse, then we registered at the marina office & learnt of a dental office across the street in the Harbour Bay Shopping Center.  A shower, 3 loads of laundry washed & into 2 dryers, then to the shopping center complex.  We located the dentist office as described & they were so good in accommodating me for 0830 hrs. the next morning ($150.00 for consultation including xrays).  The laundry was not dry, so 2 more tokens purchased (Total= 3 washers+ 4 dryers X $3.00= $21.00!).  Merrill & Maryse brought a bottle of chilled champagne in celebration of our meeting; we chatted away catching up on news out in the cockpit & did not even pay any attention to the sunset.  We gathered the laundry before our very late supper.  A warm night, gentle breeze, mostly clear sky with stars & 1/3 moon. Oh, just as I was closing my computer down, a wonderful firework display came from Paradise Island.