Week 31:
Wed. May 1, 2013— Day 211:
Destination: Mile Hammock (Mile 244.5) to Beaufort, N.C.
(Mile 202.3)
Departure: 0600 hrs. Arrival:
1340 hrs.
Distance: 42.2 SM
Winds: NE 10-20K, gusty & at times howling
Weather: clouds, sun & blue sky & white fluffy
clouds X few hrs. then back to dark clouds & drizzle rain at Moorhead City
on
 |
Fishing Boat at Beaufort Bridge |
The military were already
out at 0530 hrs. in their inflatable setting an underwater course for their
divers, beginning & end marked by illuminated floating balls. Three of us left the anchorage after 1st
light; thick, black, stinky mud on the anchor.
We had an on request opening of the Onslow Swing Bridge at 0640 hrs.,
before it started it’s hourly opening from 0700 to 1900 hrs. On a rising/flood tide shortly after 0700
hrs. we still saw decent depths passing by Brown’s Inlet, Bear Creek Inlet & the many tributaries off the Bogue
Inlet, especially after Swansboro; a boat had gone aground at G45B at Bogue
Inlet but with a rising tide & fast flowing current he got himself
off. We entered Bogue Sound at R42 &
R42A & ran the almost straight, boring run to Moorhead City X 20miles. Mid morning the NE winds increased to 18-20K,
we unfurled some jenny & it was useful for a majority of this run that was
totally against current; when the wind gusted up, it shifted more to the north
& the jenny luffed & when the wind lightened, it shifted more to the
east & the jenny was happy. Once in
the turning basin of Morehead City, we left the ICW & followed Morehead City
Channel & departed it at G1BH. We
caught the flooding tide to Beaufort & caught the 1330 hrs. opening of
Beaufort Bridge (bascule) & anchored in Town Creek by entering the very
small & tight anchorage between ICW G15 & Town Creek G1 marker. A couple of docks & mooring balls in the
anchorage now that crowds one’s anchoring possibilities. “Fish Tails” restaurant is now closed, 1 dock
destroyed in Hurricane Irene was still not repaired & the fuel dock looks like
it needs some attention; is Town Creek Marina showing signs of difficulty? On & off drizzle & dark clouds the
rest of the afternoon, evening & night, with winds piping up now &
again.
Thurs. May 2, 2014— Day
212:
Destination: Beaufort (Mile 202.3)
Winds: N to NE calm, increasing to 10-22K especially
with gusts that came in short bursts
Weather: grey, damp & dreary, cloud with drizzly
rain, improved in late afternoon to sun & blue sky
 |
Boat Building Shop |
A dreary morning for sure
& no hurry to get anywhere. A boat
shower that felt good, then we went to the marina so Graeme could refill 3
jerry cans with diesel & I took the opportunity to charge my computer while
checking emails. A very fine drizzly
rain continued to fall most of the am, but the wind was calm as we took the
dinghy under the Beaufort Bridge, around the waterfront of Beaufort & tied
up at the public dock. We then walked
Front St. A boatshow & a boat
building contest in a restricted period of time followed by that boat been
raced were the main events for Sat. May 4.
We had lunch outside but under cover at “Finz”, then visited the boat
building shop (part of the museum) open to the public, followed by a quick tour
at the museum (free admission). Shopping
is not my thing as I prefer to walk the side streets & observe the
surroundings which I have done in the past.
Palms are now very few & far between, water is not like chocolate
milk but cleaner looking, although one can’t see their chain & anchor after
a few feet when anchoring, unlike the Bahamas & the bottom is now thick,
black, sticky, stinky mud, not the sand or sandy mud with seashells. Returning to Florida we started hearing the
sound of krill at night eating at growth
on the hull; here in Beaufort, N.C. I
have not heard that sound—too cold for them as well & I have slept like a
baby the minute my head hits the pillow till morning. As we were dinghying home we saw the
‘Twomorrows” slowly making their way to the 1530 hr. opening of the Beaufort
Bridge. The bridge in fact broke down
afterwards for several hours leaving boats to make alternate decisions. We were invited to ‘Twomorrows’ for a lamb
dinner; not just lamb but marinated, BBQ lamb with orzo & baby asparagus,
all done to perfection, followed by Nassau Royale! My I have missed these very fun nights
together! Although the clouds cleared
progressively more during the afternoon, there was no visible sunset, but a
mostly clear dark night with zillions of stars.
Fri. May 3, 2013— Day 213:
Destination: Beaufort (Mile 202.3)
Winds: NE 15K early am, building dramatically &
gusting to 15-25K with frequent 30+K
Weather: mix of cloud & sun, cool very strong
breeze & warm sun
 |
Sweet Smelling Jasmine just starting to appear |
The NE winds & it’s
strength were a very disappointing element today, preventing us advancing
further north. It was not even feasible
to make the 14.8 SM distance to Cedar Creek off Adams Creek. There were small craft warnings & flood
advisory warnings in place till Saturday night. We are 5 days from homeport
& can’t get there comfortably!!! The NE winds continued to howl, keeping us
cool & have plagued us since April 13th & there is no change
in sight till maybe Sunday night. I have
been reading about & planning my exercise program & dreaming to getting
back in shape, losing some weight & getting back to cycling like a strong
athlete when I get back to Ottawa. Bed
linen was changed & the water tanks were topped with the reserve water
jerry cans. ‘Twomorrows’ anchor suddenly
started to drag; they reanchored. Graeme
dinghied me to shore then returned to the boat.
I powerwalked X 1 hrs. to & from Historic Beaufort which is not
really that large an area, but it felt good just getting out & about, sweet
smelling the jasmine periodically that was just starting to bloom. It also gave me time to think about me, my
present situation & state of mind, what I should & am going to do when
I get back home. When I returned Lynn
& Larry had gone. They had dragged
again, tried to reanchor a few more times, then felt best to move north to
Cedar Creek fighting a 30K wind. I
checked emails & posted prose & pictures on my blog while charging my
computer. The marina staff were gracious
& allowed me to use their shower facilities. Back on the boat we lifted the motor &
dinghy. Depending on the winds we prefer
to leave early & anchor with the Morrows at Cedar Creek, situating us close
to the Neuse River & Pamilco Sound, hoping to cross early Sunday morning
before winds increase to much & affect sea state of these 2 large, open
bodies of water. We heard &
communicated with Merrill (Ambition) approaching & departing Beaufort; they
continued across the rough waters of the Neuse River on a beam reach to
Oriental with 30+K NE winds & occasional 40K! A somewhat clouded evening & night.
Sat. May 4, 2013—Day 214:
Destination: Beaufort (Mile 202.3) to Cedar Creek (Mile
187.5)
Departure: 0755 hrs. Arrival: 1115 hrs. Distance: 14.8 SM
Winds: unrelenting NE 15-27K with gusts of +/-30K
Weather: cool, cloud & sporadic rain with brief
periods of a sun trying to break through
The NE winds subsided some
during the night, but it wasn’t long when they made their presence once again
this morning. And another cool, grey
& dreary day with periods of rain.
Boats out in the Neuse River reported 25-30K winds & 2-4 ft. waves;
another no go day. The anchor was well
embedded in thick, black, sticky, stinky mud; it took a long time to clean off
that mud with the deck wash. We fought a
15-27K wind the whole route, mostly on the nose + a current; the tide was
ebbing right from Gallant Cut to Russell Slough Channel, Adams Creek Canal to
Adams Creek into Cedar Creek. This
morning I wore an undershirt, long sleeve T, sweat top, fleece pants & rain
gear. And it was 27 & 24C in Ottawa
the last 2 days!!! We anchored in 8 ft.
with 80-100 ft. chain in protection in Cedar Creek; there was residual mud
& dirt on the chain & I may have missed one of the chain link
markers. A very short travel day, but a
move closer north nevertheless. The sun
tried to break through occasionally & in so doing it raised the temp inside
the cockpit enclosure; this led to a chain of change of clothes, 1st
the rain gear was removed & then into shorts & short sleeve T. Heavier clouds & fine misty rain rolled
in, decreasing visibility beyond the anchorage & the clothes were changed back
to warm wear again. Weather & winds
are now not predicted to improve till Tuesday! I am going to scream. I can’t stand this inactivity any longer. My ass is sore from doing nothing but
sitting. I feel trapped like a
prisoner. This is driving me nuts! When I look back we have continually had NE
winds since April 13th, but the weather has been unseasonably cool
with mostly a northerly wind since the latter part of February, with only a
very few sporadic days of reprieve—that is 2-1/2 months!!! Enough!!!
No sunset, no stars, no moon; only cool temps, clouds & that damn
howling strong wind!
Sun. May 5, 2013— Day 215:
Destination: Cedar Creek (Mile 187.5) to Campbell Creek
(Mile 154.3)
Departure: 0640 hrs. Arrival:
1310 hrs. Distance: 33.2 SM
Winds: N25-31K, ENE +/-20K by evening Seas: 2-3 ft. occasional 4
ft, ramped to 4-5 ft.
Weather: heavy cloud, light cloud, faint sun breaks
& back to cloud
 |
Our Route on the Neuse River & Pamlico Sound |
We listened to NOAA once
again after our early rise & weather, but more importantly the winds were
no better in direction &/or strength; rain was predicted for everyday, even
thunderstorms in a couple of days. The
wind direction was to shift to the east later on but this did not add any advantage
factor when travelling the Neuse River & Pamlico Sound. I was leaning towards giving it a shot,
although not liking the wind strength, but I was told not to complain if it’s
too rough. We bit the bullet & left
with 20-25K north winds (not NE as predicted) & 1-2 ft. waves. We crossed the Neuse River towards Oriental
& headed along that NW side; the winds ramped up to 22-27K & waves to
3-4 ft. We pitched & rolled over
& through some waves but now & again we had some slammers. Frequent water spray & waves were experienced
over the bow, crashing on the deck & up to the dodger + waves 3 feet higher
than our decks came crashing off the starboard & port sides when we smashed
down a wave. Graeme was the one
complaining. He noticed that the
stainless pole the wind generator was fastened to had detached from the base
fitting & only supported by the 2 other supports; he tied the supports to
the pushpit. Graeme compensated for the
sliding down angle by heading the boat well high of the shoal marker at Maw
Point. We were very exposed out at this
shoal marker, winds were consistently 30-31K & waves were 4-5 ft. Our boat speed was a dreadful 3.2-4.5K. By about 1100 hrs. we finally took a wide round turn around the marker towards
Bay River, rolling side to side until we were able to turn further down the Bay
River. Now our boat speed was 6K &
waves were 1 ft. & winds were only 18-20K; more comfortable, but I didn’t
say a word. We re-entered the ICW at
Hobuken Cut & under Hobuken Bridge where the water was calm & the winds
appeared less because of land protection.
Winds finally showed east & it’s true strength out into Goose
Creek. Should we anchor at Campbell
Creek or Eastham Creek? We followed the
private channel markers into Campbell Creek (most of the red markers missing)
& dropped anchor in 8 ft. letting out 100 ft. of chain. ‘Ambition’ was shortly behind. ‘Tomorrows’ stayed another night in Cedar
Creek. Joe Frost phoned & has been
stuck in Hampton X 3 days as the Cheaspeake was safely unnavigable with these
unrelenting, very strong north winds.
Again now sunset, no moon, no stars, only cloud & howling winds.
Mon.
May 6, 2013— Day 216:
Destination: Campbell Creek (Mile 154.3) to Alligator
River North—G39 (Mile 101.1)
Departure: 0710 hrs. Arrival:
1515 hrs. Distance: 53.2 SM
Winds: E 15-20K
Weather: lots of cloud, fair amount of rain, few
periods of sun & blue sky not in that order
 |
Pamlico River Route |
The ENE winds blew &
howled well into the night; I just don’t know when they settled down because it
was calmer at 0500 hrs. We actually saw
a visible sunrise amongst the clouds with a shower thrown in of course. First problem of the day was encountered
early, which in fact delayed our departure: an invasion of millions if not
billions of may flies, without a word of a lie!
They look like mosquitoes, but fortunately they don’t bite. They totally invaded the cockpit
enclosure; canvass, nav instruments, wheel, seats, cockpit cushions, floor! In some areas they were ¼ inch thick with no
exaggeration. Added to the problem was
most were dead, only their carcasses left, that turned to sticky, gummy, slim
& the smell was offensive, sickening.
Just to operate the chartplotter, to put your hands on the wheel, to
have a place to sit was a monumental task to clean & used an abundance of
precious fresh water & paper towels & rags. We would need a hose, lots of water &
soap & brush. We met a tug &
barge entering Goose Creek as we were exiting.
It was pleasantly warm, sunny with some blue sky for a nice change.
There was a 1 ft. lightly bouncy chop on the Pamlico River. East winds, not the SE that were predicted,
allowed the use of some jenny as we scooted along at 7K, but it was back on the
nose on the Pungo River, the same time the winds piped up to 20K. I spent most of this time washing &
rinsing repeatedly, trying to get a start on cleaning the fly infestation. Then came the boring 22 mile route through
the Alligator River-Pungo River Canal.
Here the skies quickly & increasingly got consumed with dark clouds
from the south & followed soon by repeatedly short lived heavy rains &
20K winds which were more consistent.
Coming out of the canal we experienced recurring heavy rain, high winds
& poor visibility; above the water line it was similar to dense fog, all
grey. We anchored east of G39 towards
but well off the shore in 8-9 ft. laying 100 ft. of chain. More fun begins—Graeme attached the water
hose to our anchor deck wash & we scrubbed & rinsed over & over
again for >1-1/2 hours to get rid of the may fly carcasses; the only problem
was all the rinsing was done with salt water!
I also tackled the flies that escaped to the interior, mostly the
ceilings & windows. Since ‘Ambition’
was not inundated with flies, Merrill suggested it was our Davis anchor light
that Graeme has been hanging in the cockpit since we have lost 2 Davis lights already
from water leaking in & rusting the circuit board that attracted them. Aha, probably that was it! We never want to experience that ever again! Well I guess that is what I get for
complaining about sitting on my ass all day reading & doing suduko! The skies tried to clear but by sunset time
dark clouds had invaded with periodic rain as well as at night.
Tues. May 7, 2013— Day 217:
Destination: Alligator River North—G39 (Mile 101.1) to
Goat Island, Pasquotank River (Mile 43)
Departure: 0620hrs. Arrival:
1450 hrs.
Distance:
58.1 SM
Winds: light & variable to E15K to S &
variable from 3-10K
Weather: nice warm mix of sun & cloud, showers
& threat of thunderstorm X2
 |
Tug & Barge on the Abermarle |
A quiet night, that is no
howling winds, only on & off rain.
The Davis light was tied outside of the enclosure under the solar panels
last night; there were a lot of May flies outside the enclosure but also
residual on the inside from the night before last; the cockpit & side decks
were still snotty in more ways than one & the nauseating putrid smell
persisted. It was warmish & humid
this am when we woke at 1st light.
There was only us & 3 trawlers anchored last night & we were the
1st to leave. The wind was
light & variable, starting with it on our nose as we made our way to the
Alligator Bridge. The bridge was having
some maintenance work performed which gave us the opportunity to caught up to a
few boats & make their requested opening about 0900 hrs. The wind increased to 15K, stabilized &
blew from the east, which permitted us to sail across the Abermarle Sound on a
beam reach at about 6.7K with 1-2 ft. chop & few 3 footers thrown in
occasionally, dogging numerous lines of crab pots, in the warm sun, until we
turned downwind from the Sound towards the Pasquotank River; more dogging of
numerous crab pots. Now the winds were
on our stern & too light at <5K so of no use. Almost all other boats headed to the Virginia
Cut route. An area of unpleasant looking
clouds with the likelihood of showers & maybe even thunderstorms appeared
in the distance at our stern; will they chase us down the Pasquotank? But they passed us to the north. The Virginia Cut was another location on my
list to see because we had never done it but not to be & I guess it will
remain that way. When we passed a few
boats were in the Elizabeth City free slips & no boats were on the
bulkhead; don’t believe that was the case at the end of the day. The Elizabeth City Bridge (bascule) opened on
request for us at about 1410 hrs.; construction happening immediately south of
the bridge. I had hoped that we might
make the last opening of South Mills Lock & Bridge at 1530 hrs. but not at
this late hour. So Goat Island it
was. There was a sense of total
blissfulness as we continued on along Pasquotank River past Elizabeth
City. Only sights, sounds & smells
of Spring! We anchored in 8-9 ft. water
& 100 ft. chain & were the lone boat here tonight. Diesel from 2 jerry cans were added to the
boat tank, some more hosing of the slim of the May flies on the port side deck,
but the water was clear but too brown in colour to hose any further. Late afternoon the warm sun was quickly
replaced by dark nasty clouds that looked like a thunderstorm was about to
hammer us; S to SE winds blew up rocking the boat, a smattering of rain, then
back to sun & fluffy clouds. A new
phenomenon tonight—clear sky & stars!